Dallas, Texas

The people in Dallas are great.  You will get a true sense of southern hospitality in most places you go.  People smile and say high whether they know you or not.  There is a pretty good age range all over Dallas.  With lots of different income levels you are going to have folks from all walks of life.  The two main inhabitants of the downtown area of Dallas are the wealthy and the homeless, and they seem to get along pretty well.  There really isn’t much in-between in the city of Dallas.  Most middle class professionals and families have moved into the surrounding suburbs where rent is a little more reasonable and you get more for the money in housing.  In the Dallas neighborhoods around Oak Cliff and some of the neighborhoods bordering warehouse/industrial areas, housing is some of the cheapest you will find in the country, but the crime has gotten increasingly worse and the economy has taken a significant down turn.  In the areas of Uptown and Victory Park, Dallas is enjoying an Urban revival with upscale townhomes and condominiums filled with young, hip, up-and-coming professionals with money to burn.  The artsy folks group around the Deep Ellum area and you will find more eclectic group of people the further you get to the city limits.

Most of the restaurants, bars, and clubs are in the downtown area and in between North Central Expressway and the Tollway as you head north towards Highland Park.  Here you will find everything from Irish pubs to 3 story clubs.  Dallas has a tremendous mixture of culture and it shows in the restaurants, bars, and clubs. Most any kind of cuisine you can imagine (and some you probably haven’t) can be found in the corridor between the Tollway and Central Expressway going north from Downtown.

Most establishments in Dallas fall into two or all three categories of Restaurant, Bar, and Club.  Al Amirs for example is a Lebanese restaurant, with an upstairs hookah lounge, and a downstairs dance club.  The Lizard Lounge, closer to Downtown Dallas, is a well known music venue and bar. Sambucas has a fantastically eclectic menu as well as some of the best jazz and live music in the city.

For the avid Clubber, the main areas to go to are Deep Ellum and Greenville.  Deep Ellum used to be the hotspot for Dallas nightlife but has been lagging a bit lately as several major venues have closed.  Greenville, especially Lower Greenville, has attracted plenty of attention, and with plenty of bars and clubs in walking distance, has become a favorite Friday and Saturday night destination in the Dallas Area.

The true treasures of the Dallas Culinary experience are the little Mom and Pop places that have been open for years that you will find stashed about the city. Sweet Georgia Browns is located in a rough area in south Dallas, but serves the best soul food you will ever put in your mouth.  St. Martins in Upper Greenville presents a dazzling upscale dinning experience, with tantalizing French cuisine fit for royalty, at moderate 5 star prices.  Of course you will find noteworthy fair on nearly every corner in Downtown Dallas.

Dallas is home to a variety of rental options, from the opulent to the bare bones.  In general, the cost is going to increase as you go from South Dallas to North Dallas.  Of course, the chances of being caught in a drive-by also decrees the further north you go.  The areas in South Dallas have not had adequate funding for economic improvements for nearly 50 years.  The Downtown area is a little better and just outside of the Downtown proper area, you will find a mix of older neighborhoods and new town homes.  The further north you go the more the rental cost and cost of living evens out into middle class housing and areas.  You get what you pay for in Dallas.  If you are paying an exorbitant amount of money, you are going to get a nice place with high resale value.  If you get a really cheap place, there’s a reason.  Be forewarned that is common practice in some of the rougher areas of Oak Cliff, for families to sleep on the floor to avoid stray bullets.  Totally not joking.

Transportation in the city of Dallas has gotten a lot better.  The DART (Dallas Area Rapid Transit) System has come a long way.  With buses and railways connecting and intersecting not only throughout the city, but with many of the suburbs just outside of Dallas city limits, Public transportation is quickly becoming a viable option.  A day pass on the DART runs about $5, monthly passes $80, and annual passes costing $500.  Before discounting the idea of a $500 annual passes, just keep in mind that the average Dallasite spends $200 to $300 in gas a month.

Cars are still the preferred method of transportation as DART still only services a small part of the DFW Metroplex. Consequently, the highways are pretty good and getting better. The Tollway system is gaining momentum and you can drive from one end of the Metroplex to the other in 45 minutes or less in good traffic. This used to take upwards of an hour and a half to 2 hours.  There is always some kind of construction going on to prepare the roads, but this usually takes place late at night.  Parking isn’t really problem outside of the downtown area, and even in downtown, there are plenty of pay lots within easy walking distance of most destinations.

When renting in Dallas its important to know that you will have some very wealthy areas right next to some very poor ones.  New developments buy out and rebuild old, run down areas all the time.  You can get some fantastic deals this way. If you are into flipping houses this is a great area to do some work.  AS with any place, it’s important to check out the area you are going to move into during the day and at night.  Some places are fantastic during the day, but not someplace you would want to get caught alone at night.  Ask local shop and restaurant owners about the neighborhood you are moving into.  Some of the hot areas in uptown and the down town areas are highly competitive, but if you have enough money to move into the places that run several thousand a month, still expect for them to be vying for your business. The apartments right around a thousand or a little under are a little hard to come buy.  The market is saturated with young professionals wanting to move to hip places, but not spend an arm and a leg.  If you are looking at getting a place between $800 and $1200 a month, you may want to go with a checkbook in hand and be prepared to face some competition.  Also, take a look at the area you are looking at renting in during rush hour.  This can make or break your day and be the difference between a 20-minute commute and an hour and a half in gridlock.  There are very fixed traffic patterns in Dallas.  Keep an eye out for these patterns. You might be cruising at 60 mph while the folks going the other way are putting along in first gear.

There is plenty to do in Dallas and depending on your interests there area certain areas you are bound to gravitate towards.  For sports, the Downtown area is fantastic.  The American Airlines Center hosts the Mavericks and Stars, and with convenient parking and DART transportation, going to a game is easy and fun.  There are also plenty of sports bars and grills with in walking distance. 

Clubs are spread pretty well over the Deep Ellum and Greenville area.  This is where the young folks go to carouse.  If you are in the mood for something especially ‘clubby’ Check out Club Purgatory or the Ghost Bar. These are the two places the elite go to party.  Unless you know someone, expect an hour or two wait and a ridiculous cover charge.

If you find yourself interested in higher pursuits, the Meyerson Symphony, the Dallas Museum of Art, and the Nasher Sculpture Center are all within walking distance of each other in Downtown as well. The Dallas Arboretum on White Rock Lake is a great stop. 

If you are interested in doing some shopping, both North Park and the Galleria are some of the best you will find in North Texas.  Surrounding all of these areas are great restaurants, AMC Movie Theaters, Ice Skating Rinks, Dave and Busters, Medieval Times, and some great things to do that you may never have thought would be in Dallas.

There’s really a great surprise at every turn in Dallas for entertainment.  Most areas have at least one live music venue, be it the giant concert venue or a small smoky jazz bar.  There are few places you can go in Dallas and leave disappointed.

You are going to love or hate certain areas depending on your lifestyle and preference. Chances are you will find yourself in one of these categories:

High Income, Metropolitan Lifestyle - Victory Park and the Downtown area are for you. There are some really nice apartments elsewhere in Dallas and the surrounding suburbs, but if you really want to be in the thick of the action in Dallas, and the very upper crust social circles, Victory Park and the downtown area have some unbelievable options. Expect to pay between $5,000 to $10,000 a month in rent.

Middle to Upper Income, Active/Casual Lifestyle – Uptown should be a great match for you. It has a lot of the nuance of the trendy downtown areas, but much, newer, more affordable, and less crowded/busy. Uptown has the look and feel of New York Brownstone areas. There are some great laidback places where you can meet up with friends, enjoy some amazing food and drinks, and live it up before Monday comes around again. Expect rent to run between $1000 and $3000

Lower Middle Income, Transitioning after College or Trade School – The outskirts of Dallas is where the suburbs begin and you may miss out on some of the excitement, but you will get a lot more peace and quiet. Not to mention drastically lower rent rates. There are some great little places in the suburb areas, with easy access to al of the amenities of Dallas, and a few little hotspots of their own. Expect rent in the area of $700 to $1200.

Students and Budget Conscious Renters – The lofts in Deep Ellum and some of the apartments in Lower Greenville are good options. There are also areas in South Dallas that have great rates on apartments. There are trade offs to these selections:

-Cheaper apartments in Lower Greenville are next to a lot of bars, but there are also a lot of nice areas too. It is a little tough to know one from the other but the rental price will tell you a lot. In the lower rent areas parking is a nightmare, and you may have a drunk or two puke on your car. The upside is that it puts you at the center of the party universe of Dallas on the weekends. Rent is anywhere from $300 to $800 a month on the low end.

-Deep Ellum has hit a bit of a slump after a few clubs have closed and are renting most of their lofts at a dollar or less per square foot. These areas are great to split with a roommate, but Deep Ellum is know for its homeless problem. Be prepared to dodge bums going to and from your car (most are pretty cool though). The upside is that you will not find a more Bohemian lifestyle or unbelievable collection of artists, poets, or free thinkers in DFW. This is where the creative come to play. Rent runs $600 to $800 a month on the low end.

-South Dallas/Oak Cliff has hit some rough economic times in the last few decades that has resulted in some heavy crime problems and a decline in real estate. There are some very tight knit communities in South Dallas with some great people. There area also some really run down areas with a lot of shootings and theft. Its tough to know unless you really look around to find something that will meet your needs. Rent is anywhere from $300 to $800 a month on the low end.

The essentials are all over Dallas.  This part of North Texas is and has always been very spread out, so each little neighborhood or suburb has had to fend for itself for building grocery stores, banks, gyms, gas stations, convenience stores, etc.  The population density in Dallas is finally getting to appoint where the neighborhoods and suburbs are connecting.  The result of this is smaller/newer neighborhoods and developments filling in the gaps.  Consequently, it is rare to go more than 2 miles without seeing a gas station, fast food joint, or Starbucks (like most of the US right?). 

The big name grocery stores you will find around Dallas are Tom Thumb, Kroger, and Albertsons.  There are also plenty of more budget conscious options like Sack-N-Save and Fiesta.  There is an additional number of specialty places such as Whole Foods, Central Market, and Sprouts that is building a following, but not yet common place.

Banks are absolutely everywhere.  Unlike the grocery store market where a few giants have pushed out the independently owned shops, small independently owned credit unions stand toe to toe with Wells Fargo, Bank of America, Wachovia, Chase and several other big name banking options.  There is a lot of money floating around in Dallas with plenty of banks and ATMs vying for your green.

Gyms are plentiful and you have all of your favorites to choose from: Bally’s, 24 Hour Fitness, Lifetime Fitness, Curves, and of course the good old YMCA.  I guess folks in Dallas are fairly image conscious, because you will see almost as many gyms as grocery stores, and usually in the same complexes.  There area a few independently owned places that area nice respite, with less wait time for machines and lower monthly rates.

There are Dry Cleaners galore in the wealthier parts of Dallas, with 2 or 3 at most intersections.  In the medium to lower income areas you won’t find as many, but you will find more Launderettes that offer some full service options.

Employment in the Dallas area hit a major surge in the 90’s with the technology boom. Dot-Coms sprang up like ragweed and everyone either had a degree in web or graphic design.  People with those tech jobs were buying houses and spending money, so the real estate market, and service industries all felt the love.  Since the internet bubble burst, the job market in the tech arena has hit a heavy decline.  Large corporations that set up corporate headquarters here and managed to weather the storm of the late 90’s and early 2000’s now dominate the Dallas market.  The economy of Dallas has finally started to pull up with independent business owners building capital again, and smaller operations developing into larger operations needing plenty of people.  There has also been a tremendous growth in the shipping industry in many of the suburban areas just outside of Dallas. 

For service oriented jobs and manual labor, the market is really pretty good.  For those with college degrees there is still fierce competition for most any position that comes open.  Be prepared to search more than a few job websites and classifieds. But when you land a job there is much less volatility than in the last 5 years.  People are staying rather than job hopping after the early 2000 lay offs.  For those artists, musicians, writers, and creative souls, there is a lot of contract work by independent business owners that can turn into full time gigs.  Competition is tough, but there are a lot of open positions, and more content needed every day.

The Dallas public school system has come a long way, but still leaves a lot to be desired.  With such a wide range of high and low-income areas in Dallas, it has been very difficult to raise the bar for test scores and athletics. Most of the wealthier residents and even not so wealthy residents of Dallas end up sending their children to private schools to ensure top-notch education.  In most of the schools in Dallas, crime and inadequate materials seem to be a constant struggle.  There Dallas community college system provides a good transition, offering low cost junior college education to aid students in their progression to fully accredited four-year institutions.

There are some great universities in the Dallas area that draw students from all over the state and the nation.  Southern Methodist University has become a prestigious law and business school with a staggering alumni association.  University of Dallas, Texas Christian University, The University of North Texas, University of North Texas Arlington, and Dallas Bible University are all within a 20 to 40 minute drive in good traffic and are highly regarded in their respective areas.  Whether you are looking at completing your first degree or graduate degree, there are plenty of great options in the Dallas area.

Real Estate in Dallas is still on a steep decline, along with the rest of the US following some of the mortgage problems from the last few years.  It is really a buyers market as far as purchasing a home.  There is a lot of movement lately to the far northern suburbs of Dallas, like McKinney and Frisco.  This has left a lot of great real estate options open for those willing to gamble on a still declining real estate market.  Unfortunately, the real estate situation is anyone’s guess at the moment.  With much of the development going on right now, people are still selling houses and town homes for double or triple what they bought it for.  There are just as many people who can’t find a buyer for a fraction of what they paid for their home.  Choose an area that fits what you are looking for, and that you are willing to put in a long term investment, and name your price, but don’t expect to sell without possibly taking a loss.  All things considered, Dallas still has some of the best prices on homes in the nation.

Half the fun, or rather adventure, of living in Texas is the weather.  The old saying if you don’t like the weather in Texas, wait a day’ is absolutely true.  Because of the location of Dallas as a meeting point of northern fronts and hot gulf air, you see some truly weird weather.

During the winter months Dallas stays anywhere between 30 and 80 degrees depending on which front is moving in.  The most drastic change in recent years was on a Monday where the temperature dropped to the mid 20’s with sleet and several inches of snow, then climbed back up in to the high 70’s by Wednesday.

Spring of course has showers, but also some heavy thunderstorms.  Expect golf/softball sized hail every once in a while, but some wonderful weather in between.  Mostly from 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Summer gets just plain hot.  Most summer temperatures top out in the low 110’s but can drop down to the high 70’s on a cool night or follow a summer storm.  The hot weather is great for boating and water activities, but can lead to overexposure and some high AC bills.  Most people get used to the hot weather within a year and start complaining when it drops into the 60’s.

There isn’t much of a fall to speak of.  Everything is alive and green one minute and brown and dead the next.  ‘Fall’, as most of the US experiences it, only lasts about a week towards the early part of November in North Texas.  From August to November really isn’t’ as much the fall season as tornado season.  Dallas tends to see some severe weather around this time stemming from the hurricane activity in the gulf and some of the heavy storms that roll in from Oklahoma.  Most of the tornado activity in Dallas is in the form of small microbursts that come down, knock down a fence or two, shake of some shingles, then putter out.  Most Dallas news stations have fantastic storm tracking equipment that give residents up to 15 minutes warning of when an actual tornado will touch down.  For those native Texans, this gives us enough time for a beer/Whataburger run with time to spare.  Wish I was joking, but I have had roommates that have done this.

All in all, the weather in Texas is tolerable because the bad stuff rarely lasts more than a few days then goes back to the 80’s and 90’s or 70’s and 80’s.  You will surely see some of the prettiest sunsets and sun showers around in Texas, and Dallas is no exception.  The severe weather actually makes for a good sense of humor in the locals, and genuine care and support if things get bad.  Texas neighborhoods pull together like no place else, following a bad storm.  For better or worse, Dallas Texas is a fantastic place to live!